From Making Chicken Mash to Cooking for Hundreds

Growing up in rural Ireland during the 1920s and 30s my mother's main tasks around the kitchen were making the mash to feed the hens and saving the water potatoes had been boiled in to get the starch for her grandad's collars. Somehow she was never involved in

cooking the meals for the family. Straining the fresh milk to make sure there were no hairs in it was as near as she came to human food!
When the time came to move out of the family home and earn a living her aunt took her to England to a job as a ward maid in the local hospital in the North East. There she lived in 'digs' and had her meals provided for her. 
In 1940 she met, fell head over heels in love with, and married my father. Mary Ellen Lynch became Mary Ellen Chicken within a few months of their first meeting. Her new life meant a move away from the place she'd come to know down to Teesside where Dad was working. She often said that she'd never even boiled an egg before they married. Luckily she had a wonderful next-door neighbour who told her how to make the meals she needed to prepare and they neither starved nor were poisoned. 
Imagine her amazement when her husband of a few weeks came home from work one day and proudly informed her that he'd got her a job to help the war effort - assistant cook in the works canteen. This was an engineering factory with hundreds of men working from 7.30am to 5pm and needing a hot midday meal, nutritious, affordable and achievable in line with rationing. Typical of Mum, she didn't bat an eyelid, just rolled up her sleeves and got on with it. For someone who always said she wasn't clever, she had a phenomenal ability to pick up skills in the kitchen from being shown once.  The one time she "cheated" was when the head cook delegated to her the cooking of the Christmas cake that would be needed. Claiming that she'd rather do it in her own oven to be sure of the temperature she took the ingredients home with her and promptly enlisted her neighbour to help her make it. The resulting cake ensured it was her job for the next few years!
Of course, in those days it wasn't the done thing to carry on working when pregnant, let alone go back when the baby was a few months old so this wasn't a long-term career. But she never lost those skills and that love of cooking. Putting a meal on the table for her family was one of the joys of her life.

Ask my children what they remember of Grandma and the answer is always the same - Cheese and Onion Flan. It was always just coming out of the oven as we arrived for lunch or tea, but there was never a recipe written down. One day when shopping she went into Marks and Spencer to see if they had anything interesting. She spotted in the chiller compartment something she hadn't seen before - a savoury tart that looked very appetising. Looking at the price she decided very quickly that it was too expensive for her, but she looked at the ingredients and decided she could make it herself.  A few days later the flan was cooked for the first time - a creamy cheesy filling with soft cooked onion and chopped up ham, some herbs and seasoning, an instant family favourite. Years later she'd cook one without ham for the grandchildren who'd decided not to eat meat, and one with for everyone else. 
No-one who met her in later life would believe that she'd come to married life not knowing how to boil an egg!

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